The Duck & Rice, a Chinese gastropub first launched in Soho, has opened a second location inside Battersea Power Station’s high-end shopping complex.
Battersea’s makeover is hard to ignore. Once an industrial landmark, it now boasts over 150 luxury shops from Lululemon to Mulberry, set across polished floors and dramatic mezzanines. It’s designed for spending money you probably don’t have on things you don’t really need.
Into this glossy scene comes The Duck & Rice. The brand was created by Alan Yau, the restaurateur behind Wagamama, Hakkasan and Yauatcha. The original Soho location marketed itself as a “Chinese gastropub,” though in reality it felt more like a modern Cantonese restaurant with dim sum, roast duck and the occasional big-ticket dish like a £72 lobster laksa. Yes, they poured Pilsner Urquell, but the cocktail list leaned nightclub chic with lychee and curaçao mixes.
The new Battersea branch takes things further. A £415 bottle of Vega Sicilia sits on the menu, alongside cocktails that feel more private club than pub. It’s an odd fit for a place officially located at “Unit L1-003, Level 1, Phase 2,” right next to a champagne bar called Control Room B.
The challenge is that Brits still hesitate to splash out on fine dining inside shopping centers. Westfield and the Trafford Centre thrive on casual food courts, not anniversary dinners. But here sits The Duck & Rice, between a pilates studio and a luxury gilet shop, aiming to change that.
On a Tuesday lunch visit, the cavernous restaurant felt eerily quiet. There were 22 cooks in the kitchen, three bartenders and four servers, but no other guests when we arrived. The dim sum started strong: plump har gau packed with shrimp and buttery venison puffs were standouts. A “Duck Old Fashioned,” made with tequila and chocolate liqueur, was bold if not exactly true to the cocktail’s roots.
The main courses, however, fell flat. The house special duck and rice, priced at £25, looked good but tasted ordinary, with crispy slices of duck laid over plain rice and cucumber. A vegan glass noodle dish lacked energy and spice. The chilli king prawns, fiery and drenched in tamarind sauce, saved the meal and were easily the highlight.
Service, though, lagged. Once mains hit the table, staff disappeared until the bill was dropped without warning. With only a handful of other diners in the room, you’d think they’d encourage lingering over tea or dessert. Instead, the meal ended abruptly, leaving little reason to stay.
The verdict: Battersea’s Duck & Rice offers style, space and a few good bites, but most dishes don’t justify the price or setting. With so many other options nearby, it’s hard to see this place becoming anyone’s go-to for a special night out.
Details
The Duck & Rice, Unit L1-003, Level 1, Phase 2, Battersea Power Station, London SW11. Tel: 020-3327 7881
Open daily: Lunch 12-3:30pm, Dinner 5-10pm (11pm Fri & Sat)
Price: About £40 per head à la carte; weekday lunch from £18, plus drinks and service
